Bespoke men’s shoes: Blake or Goodyear Welt?

Bespoke men’s shoes: Blake or Goodyear Welt? Two constructions, maximum quality. Today we will talk about the two main shoe constructions when you want to get shoes of the highest quality: Blake and Goodyear Welt.

The world of footwear is undoubtedly full of  proposals and options. Different models, colors and brands are just some of the different options available when choosing a new pair of shoes.

Cambrillon zapatos personalizados para hombre patinados a mano

When you are deciding which pair of shoes to buy, our suggestion is suggestion is to remember that “there is a shoe for every occasion”. Ask yourself a few simple questions: For a wedding, for your day to day at work or simply to obtain a polished casual look? Perhaps, you just like to wear elegant shoes for your day to day? Whichever model you looking for, Cambrillón is the right place.

Once you have decided which is your favorite model and you know what your usual size is, it’s time to ask yourself another question : What makes the difference in price? What’s the difference between a shoe that costs €150 and another that costs €300?. It’s evident that the quality of the leather and other materials, the brand and the country of origin are aspects that influence in the final price. Perhaps, the most important factor when determining the price is the method of construction of the shoe, the manufacture. 

Put simply, by construction we refer to the way in which the sole is attached to the shoe. To better understand the differences between building methods, we have to ask ourselves: what parts does a pair of shoes have.

Parts of a man's shoe

Below we describe the main elements that are involved in the process of construction of a shoe for men:

Upper part. It refers to the skin that covers the foot. It is what is above the sole when we put on a shoe. The upper part of the shoe is composed of different elements (shovel, heel, toe, etc.). In English, the upper part is called “Upper”.

Insole. It is a skin component with which the inner sole of the shoe is covered, being in contact with the foot once the shoe is put on. In English, the upper part is called “Insole”.

Sole. It is the part of the shoe that comes into direct contact with the ground when we walk. In English, the upper part is called “Outsole”.

Welt. It is an exclusive component of shoes with Goodyear stitching. The Vira or “Welt” is the eyebrow that covers the entire shoe between the sole and the skin. Its main function is to join the upper part and the sole.

Now that we know what are the parts of a pair of shoes and how they are related to the manufacturing process, it is time to describe two basic methods of footwear construction: the Blake Welt and the Goodyear Welt.


Blake or Goodyear Welt

Blake Stitch of Blake Welt is a shoe construction method that appeared during the Industrial Revolution and became famous thanks to the lightness and flexibility that gives to shoe. This method is still in force today.

Cambrillon Zapatos personalizados para hombre con Blake Welt

Compared with other manufacturing techniques based on the gluing of the different pieces, Blake Welt stands out for its resistance. Its main characteristic is the particular sewing process, which joins the body of the shoe to the sole.

Shoes made with Blake Welt technique are undoubtedly a high quality product. In Cambrillón, we offer the possibility to our clients to customize their pair of shoes by choosing the method that best suits their personal taste.

Bespoke men’s shoes with Blake Welt: flexibility and resistance.


Advantages and disadvantages of Blake Welt

Advantages. This technique is less elaborate than to Goodyear one, and of course that is reflected in terms of price. Blake Welt is usually less expensive that Goodyear. Shoes made with this method allow you to replace the sole when it wears. This type of shoe has fewer layers than a shoe with Goodyear Welt, for that has greater flexibility.

Disadvantages. Although it’s possible to re-sew the sole, it’s necessary to use a specific machine for it. The direct consequence is that this process becomes more expensive. The shoe with Blake Welt is more flexible, but because of the fewer layers than the Goodyear one, it provides less insulation. Another point to consider is that sometimes it can be a bit annoying that the stitching goes inside the shoe,  because when stepping on, we could feel the seam and that could create discomfort.


Goodyear Welt

Bespoke Goodyear welted shoes by Cambrillon

Welt is the oldest, most elaborate and most durable method. Nowadays, the craftsmen must master perfectly this technique, both by hand and by machine. Fundamentally, Goodyear Welt consists of three parts. 

The first is a seam that joins the leather of the shoe to the welt and the insole. At this point, a cork paste is applied to the central part of the shoe.


Cosido para zapatos ¿Blake o Goodyear?

The cork acquires the shape of the insole to adjust to the “footprint” and at the same time, it will be an excellent natural insulator. Finally, the third step consists of a seam joining the welt to the sole.

Goodyear Welted shoes stand out not just for their incredible strength and durability, but also for their comfort. After a period of use, “the footprint” is engraved on the cork. 

Goodyear Welt bespoke men’s shoes: excellence and durability.

This method of sewing gives an added value to each pair of Cambrillón, as it is the only sewn recognized internationally. In Cambrillón, we offer the possibility for each client to customize their pair of shoes, choosing the construction that best suits their taste.

Advantages and disadvantages of Goodyear Welt

Advantages. With the Goodyear Welt, in case the sole is worn, the replacement is very simple. This process can be done either by machine or by hand. On the other side, the extra layers required for this sewing make the shoes more waterproof and durable.

Disadvantages. Due to the additional materials, the level of work and professionalism required to the craftsman in manufacture, the shoe made with Goodyear Welt is much more expensive. The additional layers needed to manufacture a pair of shoes with Goodyear Welt provide more resistance, but on the other hand this shoe is less flexible compared to a shoe with Blake Welt.


More flexibility? Greater durability? Comfort and natural isolation? It is evident that the characteristics of a pair of shoes with Blake or with Goodyear Welt are unique. At Cambrillón, we know very well that every foot, every step and each and every client is unique. That is why we offer the two best shoe construction techniques in the field. 

The color of the leather, your favorite model and the combination of materials are just some of the options that we put at your disposal.

At Cambrillón, we know very well that every foot, every step and each and every client is unique. That is why we offer the two best shoe construction techniques in the field. 

The color of the leather, your favorite model and the combination of materials are just some of the options that we put at your disposal.